Malaysia Chronicles Two: Taman Negara

If it not for my boyfriend who is into camping and trekking and all else related to nature in the rough, I would not have been to Taman Negara, one of the world’s oldest tropical rain forests whose history stretches back to 130 million years ago; I would have kept to traveling with ease and comfort, and I would not have had such a thrilling adventure as I did back there.

entrance to Taman Negara National Park

According to the introductory video we watched on our first night at the forest headquarters, Taman Negara covers 4343 sq kms that spans across three states in Malaysia (Kelantan, Terengganu, and Pahang) and has its highest point at Gunung Tahan (2187 m), the tallest mountain in Peninsular Malaysia. It houses over 10,000 species of plants, over 350 species of birds and local mammals including deer, wild oxen, monkeys, wild boars, elephants, leopards and tigers.  And during the night trekking we did see some of these species: we spotted a number of insects and some mating frogs.

The following morning, after a strictly halal yet completely nourishing breakfast at one of the floating restaurants, we crossed the river and set out on a two-hour trek up Bukit Teresek, a 342-meter hill. With the trail so steep and the humidity quite high that I had to catch my breath every step of the way, the climb was truly exhausting, but the view at the top made it all worthwhile.

   

The highlight of the trek was, of course, the Canopy Walk along a 550-meter walkway suspended 40 meters above the ground among towering trees. It didn’t feel scary at first, not until the narrow walkway began to sway, and I stood there frozen, holding on to the ropes for dear life.  I had to block out everything and concentrate on making one brave step after another. It was only by sheer focus and willpower that I reached the end of the canopy walkway.  And when I did, it was exhilarating and I felt as if I accomplished something big.

the canopy walkway

  

Our adventure continued on a boat ride upstream Trenggan River, where we shot rapids that soaked us to the skin.  As the waters swelled and poured inside our boat, sudden whoops and shrieks of laughter filled the air. Remembering that wet, shaky, thrilling boat ride always makes me smile.

  

Back at our durian-scented inn for some much needed rest, I thought to myself, this shabby room isn’t bad at after all.  It may not have the amenities as other hotels do, but it has a bed, a bathroom and a view of the mountains. What else do we really need? What do we need wifi, TV, a swimming pool for if we have the entire Taman Negara within our reach?

 

the Mama Chop floating restaurant where we have our meals

Kuala Tahan, forest headquarters

Our guide told me that only a few Asians visit the area.  I looked across our group, which is composed mostly of Europeans, and realized that only my boyfriend and I are the sole Asians. Until now, I’m still wondering why Taman Negara with its history and biodiversity is not a prominent an attraction for Asian travelers as it is for others.

Why does parting always have to be this hard?

Why does parting always have to be this hard? When, thinking that you’ve grown so used to it that you can handle it with grace, you try to smile but the corners of your mouth start to tremble and you feel the tears swell up uncontrollably, you know that you’re in for another heartache. For another round of waiting. For another battle with despondency until his return, once again, draws near.

Malaysia Chronicles One: Shunning Glitter

Favoring the kitschy charm of Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown, we stayed away from glitzy shopping malls, glamorous hotels, the circus atmosphere of theme parks, and the soaring magnificence of the Petronas Towers. The only glitter that captivated us is that of the dusty, red lanterns that adorn the entire length of Petaling Street. For several days we lived in the city, in an area where the old exists in harmony with the new and tradition commingles with change. The place’s horrors and delights are revealed to us, and we took them all in.

By early morning, the streets are filled with locals languorously savoring their breakfast of tea with noodles, pastry or congee. As two among a few tourists in the area who are always up before 8 am, we are privileged to experience the serenity of the place before it turns into a mecca for shoppers fond of counterfeit items by midmorning. By night, Chinatown is transformed into one big, raucous party where Tiger beer reigns supreme, alfresco dining is the norm and people watching is the best form of entertainment. The aroma of grilling satay, the untiring energy that permeates the place, the melodious blend of different languages and the soft radiance of lit lanterns are intoxicating.

During our two-week stay in Malaysia, Chinatown became our home. We traveled to other parts of the country but always came back to the same place to experience its horrors and delights over and over again.